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Two hermanas in Costa Rica

Costa Rica cloud forestAnna:

The continents collided with a vengeance, launching volcanoes that sent molten rock flowing down their sides to cool into islands in the ocean.

Or so I read as we flew south, following the long leg of Mexico down into Central America on our journey toward Costa Rica.

The islands built and merged, until they formed one continuous land bridge connecting North and South America.  At three million years old, Costa Rica is only barely older than humanity, and the country served as the junction of two well developed floras and faunas.  Here, thousands of North and South American species intermingled, interacted, merged.  It was this center of biodiversity I had come to see.

Our journey was my sister Maggie's first foray out of the United States, so I should have been the worldly one, coming to the end of a full year travelling around the world.  But I was terrified of Central America, writing in my journal fears of being "robbed, raped, and killed."  On our first days in Costa Rica, all I thought about was survival.


Maggie feeding a toucanMaggie:

My expectations were not very clear entering into this foreign land.  I did not know what Costa Rica would be or how it would change me.  Looking back with perspective, I see that I was a tourist and trespasser at first.  Only later, after gazing into the eyes of a girl on the bus to Monteverde, did I put on my new (Vietnamese) sombrero and become Peace Pilgrim, the explorer. 

3-2-01
“I spent an hour or so watching  an extremely cute little girl.  She sat in front of Anna and me, balancing on front of the seat back.  She ate chips and talked to the two blond bunned ladies behind her…  The girl’s face was very expressive and almost always smiled.”

I crashed into this new land speaking bad Spanish and misinformed about so many things.  I used the word “American”  to distinguish myself from the locals, even though their continent was Central America.  I was shocked to see so many “American” things, when what I meant was “Western brands”.  After a point, however, I stared into their eyes enough that I was immersed.  I became a pilgrim or an explorer in this beautiful land. 

I write about the politics of Costa Rica (and the economy), but before coming to Costa Rica, I had never traveled abroad, nor had I experienced poverty to this degree.  I remember how scary and invigorating it was for me to ride on that bus to Monteverde.  It went fast down unpaved mountain roads.  When you are a passenger on a moving bus though, there is little you can do to control how or where you land. 






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